
The Waning Moon Cycle fills the entire week with the Last Quarter Moon arriving 13 October. The Moon begins to ascend in Southern Hemisphere skies near the end of the week. These conditions favour root development. This is an ideal time to plant bulbs, corms, roots and tubers plus anything with a tap root. Sow root crops; establish almost anything that can be transplanted from a container.
Best Garden Jobs to Tackle This Week:
11-12 Oct. the Moon moves into sidereal Gemini (barren air sign) which is excellent for general building and construction, cultivation, feeding, general garden maintenance, landscaping, pruning and spraying. Mowing lawns now tends to keep them shorter for longer. Pruning and shaping shrubs, trees and vines now tends to keep them in shape for longer. These two days may possibly be the most difficult times this week to plant anything tender.
What to Plant and Sow
Summer Bulbs, Corms, Rhizomes and Tubers to Plant:
Achimenes, Acidanthera, Agapanthus, Alocassia, Amaryllis, Arum, Caladium, Calla, Calocasia, Canna, Crinum, Dahlia, Eucomis (Pineapple Lily), Galtonia (Cape Hyacinth), Gladioli, Gloriosa Lily, Gloxinia, Hedychium (Edible and Ornamental Gingers), Hemerocallis, Hippeastrum (Amaryllis),Hymenocallis (Ismene), Ranunculus (cold climates), Taro, Tigridia (Shell Flower), Tuberose, Tuberous Begonias, Zantedeschia (Arum/Calla) and more.
All these dormant ‘bulbs’ can be started continuously for some time to come. Some like Gladioli, Tigridia, Hippeastrum and Tuberose can be planted in succession over many weeks to extend their flowering season. But wherever rust is a problem, especially in humid subtropical climates, Gladioli should be started without delay as later plantings will almost certainly be affected. This has almost ruined the growing of Gladioli in hot, humid subtropical gardens.
In cooler and temperate climates most subtropical ‘tender’ bulbs are best started now to give them the longest possible flowering season. Gardeners with the blessing of a glasshouse probably have started their plants last month or even earlier in containers. Once these plants become large enough to handle and the climate appears stable in their locality, they can begin to be planted out but only in sheltered and very warm positions. Patience is the key because conditions will definitely improve next month.
Annuals, Biennials, Perennials, plus Rhizomous and Tuberous Rooted plants can all be planted with care provided there is little is any root disturbance and they can be regularly watered. All of these can also be started more successfully from seed. This is an ideal time to start biennials and many species of perennials for next years’ flowering.
Easy ones to try include:
Canterbury Bells, Cyclamen, Delphinium, Gerbera, Geum, Gloxinia, Lunaria and hundreds more. These are best sown into individual pots, punnets or seedling flats filled with free draining seed raising mix enriched with a dusting of Dolomite Lime and a little slow release food. Soil must remain lightly moist but never soggy and wet. Keep them in a very bright spot (but never in scorching sunshine) that remains constantly warm and away from all chilling drafts. Germination usually occurs within one to two weeks but can be erratic. Seedlings will be ready to transplant into larger pots or their permanent growing positions within 4-8 weeks. Usually they are ready to transplant once their roots begin to emerge from the drainage holes in their container.
Vegetables:
This week is a fine time to plant or sow all root crops and anything with an extensive root system like Asparagus. Many leafy crop vegetables are started now too as they are less likely to bolt. Leafy vegetables and those that produce their crops above the ground are traditionally sown or planted after the New Moon (20 Oct.) until the Full Moon (4 November).
Now is also an appropriate time to prepare for major planting later in the month onward into next month. In gardens with soil already prepared, seed can be sown all week. But it is often best to sow much of this in containers and grow the seedlings on in a sheltered spot rather than risk potentially damaging inclement weather events out in the open. Seed and seedlings planted into open ground will almost certainly benefit from cloches or sheltering against chilling winds and damaging weather.
Vegetable to Plant:
Asparagus seed, Artichoke, Beans*, Beet, Cabbages, Capsicum*, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chicory, Chinese Green Vegetables, Choko*, Cress, Cucumber*, Eggplant*, Endive, Gourd*,Leeks, Lettuce, Luffa*, Marrow*, Melons*, Mustard, Okra*, Onions, Spring Onions, Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Pumpkins*, Radish, Rhubarb, Salsify, Silver Beet, Squash*, Spinach, Sweet Corn*, Kumara*, Tobacco, Tomato*,Turnip, Zucchini* and more.
Anything marked with (*) must be sheltered from cold and are usually best started in small containers sheltered in a sunny and warm environment; then planted in their permanent positions once warmer conditions remain constantly warm.
How to Prepare for Successful Vegetable Crops:
Thorough preparation is essential for success with most vegetables. Before planting vegetables, thoroughly dig and turn the soil. Remove all weeds. Enrich with well-aged manure and/or mature compost and a dusting of a well balanced General Plant Food. This can almost whiten the ground but to no depth. If the soil is volcanic and shows any signs of green algae or moss also dust with Dolomite or Garden Lime. Dig this in lightly.
Wherever crops are meant to be sown direct from seed, it is best to water the site generously and leave it for a week or two and observe what weeds appear. Then while the weeds are still small, cultivate the soil on a sunny, warm and (optionally) windy day. Weeds will shrivel and become green manure and the bed will now be much more weed-free and in better condition to sow the crop seed without weedy competition. In newly turned land that might contain a multitude of weed seed, it is often best to repeat this process several times before planting. This will eliminate most weed seed from the top layers of soil and make direct sowing and weed elimination much easier as the season progresses.
To further eliminate weeding while holding in valuable soil moisture, the bed can be mulched with an nutrient enriching organic material like compost, crushed leaves, straw, etc. or substitute black plastic, cardboard or newspaper, etc. Place the mulch between the rows. Black plastic or Weedmat used as ‘blanket’ mulch will also help warm the soil but must be pegged down securely. This is ideal inorganic mulch for warm weather tender crops like Cucumbers, Eggplant, Gourds, Melons, Peppers, Pumpkin and Squash plus Tomatoes and many more subtropical species that demand warm soil for successful cropping.
Once seed or seedlings have been planted and watered-in well once, refrain from excessive watering until the weather thoroughly warms. By keeping soil somewhat on the drier side, it will remain warmer and roots are less likely to chill during cooler evenings. Unless soil becomes excessively dry, refrain from watering during the cooler evening hours. This can chill the plants and slow their development or even result in disease or rot. The most vulnerable are very tender crops like Beans, Cucumber, Gourd, Luffa, Melons, Okra, Pumpkins, Squash, Tomatoes, etc. These should be protected against chilling and late cold snaps with cloches, frost cloth or mulch.
If in Doubt, Wait!
Warming days are very tempting for planting out tender summer flowers and vegetables. This includes all the summertime favourites like Beans, Cucumbers and Melons, Peppers, Tomatoes and so many more. Many Novice Gardeners will also be tempted to plant or repot palms, subtropical and tropical species. In the most sheltered positions and very warmest climates plus in the glasshouse, this is permissible.
However, night time and average soil temperatures in many locations may still be too cold for safe planting out into the open. A minimum night time temperature of 12C/ 53.6F is the lower limit; much safer is 15C/59F. Anything less than this can chill and silently damage, kill or severely stunt the growth of tender plants. All it takes is a single chilling night to permanently damage or kill tender plants. So if there is any doubt: don’t do it, especially this week and next! Remember that almost all seedlings either purchased or grown at home have been sheltered in a very bright, warm environment. At this time of year young seedlings can be grown on successfully in containers for quite some time without damage. The same cannot be said once they are exposed to potentially inclement weather.
Refrain from planting out anything tender in most gardens without protection with cloches or frost cloth. This transitional time in the season is famous for rapid temperature extremes from Summer to Winter in a single day; complete with hail, pelting rains and winds that can quickly ruin sensitive plantings. Be patient! If weather appears to be at all extreme or inclement, delay planting until next week or later. Use this week to prepare for planting in the benevolent, warmer times ahead. Next month is bound to be more benevolent.
The New Moon (20 October) ushers in much more benevolent planting and sowing conditions that will develop into Late Spring in the weeks ahead. Plan and prepare now for planting then once conditions are more benevolent and warm weather more likely sustainable.
Strawberries:
Strawberries should be flowering and some will be producing early fruits. To increase yields, Strawberry plants should be generously mulched. The name ‘Straw’ berry says it all. Apply mulch around Strawberry plants as soon as they are planted and renew mulches on second and third year plants. Straw (Barley, Pea, Rye, Wheat, etc.) is ideal; spoilt hay is also good provided it is weed-free.. Old leaves that do not pack down too tightly also work well. Many commercial growers prefer black plastic or Weedmat. Even boards, cardboard, carpet, or newspaper will do. All these help seal in valuable soil moisture and give the fruit an airy, dry surface upon which to rest so that fruit has less opportunity to rot.
For the best and biggest berries make sure all plantings have a generous helping of mature compost and/or aged manure. This should be dug in deeply prior to planting and can also be used as a side dressing or compost mulch. The plants should be side-dressed between plants and rows with a special Strawberry Fertiliser or a well-balanced General Garden Fertiliser. Strawberries also appreciate an occasional dusting with Lime or Dolomite.
Maintain an even water supply, especially during dry weather. Water early enough in the day so that plants can dry out before dusk. It is best to water while there is at least a slight breeze to insure that the plants and especially the fruits are thoroughly dry before nightfall as wet fruits invite fungal diseases and rot.
Magic Mulch:
In Nature most plants naturally mulch themselves by dropping old branches and foliage; occasionally aging fruits around their base and sometimes by snaring debris and leaves blown their way by the wind. People sometimes have a tendency to remove this so their gardens look “tidy”. This is often a big mistake as plants are doing this to protect themselves against the dry and heat of the Summer ahead. The mulch maintains an even soil temperature; retains moisture and feeds the soil as it slowly decomposes. Without this mulch many plants will ultimately become vulnerable to drought stress. They will require additional watering that will make them become much more time consuming and costly to maintain.
Mulches come in many forms. Compost is often ideal. Pulverized dry manure can work magic because both these feed while they protect. Old potting mix also works. Granulated bark is a classic as is gravel, sand, stones and large boulders. Dried grass clippings work fairly well. Crushed or fluffy leaves are much better. Acid loving plants benefit from a mulch of crushed Camellia, Magnolia, Oak and Pine foliage which have a low pH as does peat and peat moss. Garden debris cropped through a shredder is quite good. So is straw and to some degree spoilt hay. But hay can grow weeds so is often best applied beneath dense shrubbery and trees. Many weeds removed from the garden also work wonders when spread as mulch beneath the dense foliage of shrubs and trees. It is too dark for them to grow and as they decompose their greatly benefit the soil beneath the shrubs and trees. Cardboard and newspaper; carpet or carpet liner; black plastic or Weedmat; old boards or blankets can also be most effective, especially when it is essential to smother noxious and persistent weeds that might otherwise work their way through more open organic mulches.
Start now and keep building upon this mulch throughout the season ahead. The ground is deeply moist in many regions now, or at least as damp as it is possibly going to be. So this is the time to seal this valuable moisture in the ground before drying winds and heat rob this moisture from the soil.
Mulching Against the Weather Ahead:
This Summer extremes are becoming the norm rather than the exception as ‘climate changes’ increase. This can put unusual stress on garden plantings. Now is the time to prepare. Target first all vulnerable shrubs, trees and vines, also most annual and perennial plantings and vegetables. Start with a light mulch of bark, compost, dried grass clippings, fluffy leaves, mulched garden debris, straw, etc. Keep building up the layers of mulch whenever materials become available. This should be a continuous process to prepare the garden for Summer.
Wise Gardeners constantly feed all plantings with enriching organic mulch, like mature compost or well aged manure. A small quantity of an appropriate fertilizer can be mixed in to the compost to give it an extra nutrient boost. This can be scattered right over bark, hay, straw or other mulches. The compost will help maintain ‘living’ mulch that slowly breaks down and feeds the ground and plants at a continuous rate to ensure optimum growth, harvests and general plant health. This is what would naturally happen in the bush, meadow or woodland as leaves and debris fell amongst the plantings and was boosted by animal and bird droppings.
Staking:
Stake securely all brittle and tall-growing plants now so that later storms will do no damage. Stakes are often best put in place early in the season before they are really needed. This eliminates the possibility of a stake damaging a mature plant’s root system if it were inserted later in the season.
This includes all newly planted taller shrubs, trees and vines, especially those exposed to strong winds. This keeps them from rocking back and forth during gusty windy weather. As they persistently rock, their roots can be broken. This can result in profound damage, disease or even the loss of the planting.
Also stake Dahlia, Delphinium, Gladioli, Sunflowers, Tomatoes; most brambles and cane fruits plus ‘lollipop’ and ‘mop-top’ standards like Abutilon, Fuchsia, Gardenia, Roses, etc. along with anything else vulnerable to wind damage.
Spring can be notoriously changeable and is famous for extremes which can include strong winds and later on Summer and Autumn cyclones. These often occur when plants are nearing maturity and are at their most vulnerable for being damaged or destroyed by strong winds. There is little that can be more demoralizing than to have spent a year or more carefully attending to some botanical treasure only to watch it smashed to the ground by a storm just as it is about to reach its glorious peak of flowering, fruiting or cropping. The Wise Gardener knows to stake now and avoid later disappointment.
Acid-loving plants are those that prefer a lower soil pH. This is usually a pH somewhere between 5.5 and 6.5. A pH of 7 is considered ‘neutral’. Amongst the acid-loving classics are: Azalea, Camellia, Clethra, many Conifers, Crepe Myrtle, Daphne, Erica, Gardenia, Heaths, Hibiscus, Holly, Hydrangea, Magnolia, Mountain Laurel, Luculia, Oaks, Pieris, Pyracantha, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Vireya, Witch Hazel; also Blueberry bushes and all Cane and Bramble Fruits. These should be fed with a commercial Acid-Balanced Fertiliser. Blueberry needs quite acidic soil (4.5-5.5) which can be achieved naturally with a mulch of Pine needles combined with a regular scattering of an Acid pH fertilizer. Peat or Peat Moss also is naturally acid mulch. Crushed leaves from any of these acid-loving species also make great organic acid mulch.
Citrus should be lightly fed with a General Garden Fertiliser or special Commercial Citrus Food. They prefer a slightly acidic pH of 6.0-7.0.
Pruning:
Light pruning and shaping of a wide variety of conifers, broad-leafed evergreens, shrubs, trees and vines can continue all week. Prune lightly after flowering all ornamental shrubbery to keep them shapely. Maintain a constant and continual level of liquid or granular feeding and/or composting to all plantings to induce the maximum flowering and growth potential now that the growing season is fully under way.
Things pruned back now tend to stay pruned back for longer. But be careful about how much is pruned off during the more extreme celestial ‘Dark of the Moon’ phase coming up next week 17-19 Oct.). Very severe pruning back to stumps can sometimes kill or greatly reduce new growth due to stronger gravitational/tidal forces that may result in excessive sap bleeding from exposed wounds followed by air being drawn into exposed cuts.
Disease and Pests:
They are back! The persistence of westerly winds and storm events rising off the Australian continent traditionally brings with it legions of insect pests. These mix with the local survivors that are now dining and sucking the life out of whatever they can find. As they do this they carry spores that spread diseases. Humid, warm weather and Equinox winds soon help them multiply and spread quickly as the weather warms. In particular watch Citrus and Roses but also all ornamental flowers, shrubs, trees and vines for insect attack and be prepared to spray.
For a successful garden it is essential to eliminate predacious insect pests immediately before they can spread and set up residence in the garden! Professional Gardeners often do a comprehensive systemic spray over almost everything at this time of year. When thoroughly and well applied, this will often eliminate most insect pests for the entire growing season. A healthy, well fed and highly maintained garden is much less vulnerable to attack but the reality is that nothing is ever completely safe forever. Remain vigilant and watchful. Act to eliminate disease and fungal problems plus pests immediately as soon as they are seen. Even waiting just a few days will often result in a worse problem that becomes ever more difficult to control.
This Third Week in the Mid Spring Garden:

Full Waning Last Quarter Moon deepens into the Dark of the Moon (17-19 Oct.) before the New Moon (20 October). This New Moon marks the lunar beginning of Late Spring. It is the time of Diwali, the Festival of Light and victory of Light over darkness; good triumphant over evil. This should be a good gardening week ahead for root development. Sow all root crop vegetables; and plant dormant bulbs corms, rhizomes, roots and tubers especially those that produce beautiful flowers and/or exotic and lush tropical foliage. Also plant with care a variety of ornamental groundcovers, shrubs, trees and vines. Continue planting these after the New Moon and onward for the remainder of the month plus add hardy and leafy vegetables that produce their crops above the ground. In sheltered and warm gardens (only!) begin to plant out warm season vegetables with protection from potentially chilling night temperatures.
The Moon ascends in Southern Hemisphere skies all week so its gravitational power begins to increase. This often pushes ahead of it a flush of humid and warm Spring air. But be guarded against the possibility of a cool change, especially in exposed colder climates that is even more likely later next week. As the power of this Moon increases, the chance of changeable and possibly extreme weather events also increases.
Each day this week the Moon rises before the Sun and the two celestial bodies draw closer together until they rise in unison 20 October with the New Moon 8AM NZDST. Most successful liquid feeding and watering occurs when it is applied as the Moon and Sun’s gravitation pull increases as they rise and then arc overhead i.e. early morning through mid afternoon. After that most liquid food and water gets pulled into the roots and soil where it will help refresh a dry garden by the next morning. These gravitational forces reach their peak with the New Moon resulting in high tidal forces in all of Nature.
A Time for a Variety of General Gardening Activities:
Due to the increasing gravitational extremes rising during the Last Quarter Moon Cycle and especially the ‘Dark of the Moon’ this can sometimes prove a challenging time for planting, especially anything tender. If in doubt, wait to plant anything flimsy and tender until next week once conditions improve and moderate.
But this is an ideal time for many general gardening activities: composting (making and spreading); cultivating and weeding; feeding and spraying; mowing (too keep grass shorter for longer); light pruning, dead-heading and tidying plus watering. Now is an ideal time to build foundations; lay paving, spread gravel and soil or set fence posts as gravitational forces are strong and will tend to ‘anchor’ things into the ground. Use this time to repair equipment and sharpen tools and buy new equipment and tools. It is also an excellent time to plan and research; order or purchase plants, seeds and necessary supplies plus visit other gardens and get new ideas for your future gardens.
The lowered water retention in the days surrounding the New Moon makes an ideal time to collect and save seed. It is also the best time to gather and pick herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables for drying and long-term storage.
Eliminating Noxious Vegetation and Stubborn Weeds:
The ‘Dark of the Moon’ (17-19 October) is the best time this month to attempt to eliminate hardy noxious weeds, rampant scrub, stubborn vegetation or weed trees. This isn’t always easy because Spring sap is rising, it is more difficult to eliminate noxious vegetation than it is in the Autumn when sap is retreating into the roots. Smaller weeds in active growth are easily eliminated with contact or hormone sprays. It is the larger scrub, trees and vines that make take more effort.
But the gravitational extremes created during the ‘Dark of the Moon’ phase will favour sap bleeding. When the Moon is beneath the horizon (from before dusk to nearly dawn) its gravitational field will combine with that of the Earth. This creates a strong downward pull in plants that favours root development and can also pull herbicides into freshly made cuts stumps in noxious vegetation. This can be used most effectively to help eliminate deeply rooted plants like Convolvulus, Gorse and Tobacco weed and a variety of unwanted brush and scrub.
To make this work most effectively, cut back top growth on woody noxious plants later in the day and apply a suitable herbicide liberally over the freshly cut stump(s) before nightfall. For herbaceous weeds (Chickweed, Dandelion, Dock, etc.) apply contact herbicides during dry, sunny and warm days. If a systematic herbicide like a Glyphosate is to be used, apply this over active growth almost any time this week. Organic Gardeners can substitute a mixture of kerosene and salt applied over the open cut or stump.
A common ‘mistake’ is to attempt to spray herbicide over the entire plant. Then once it is dead eliminate it. There is nothing technically wrong with this. But it means a lot more chemical spray must be used that will pollute a much bigger area. It also means that someone has got to get in there and remove great piles of dead and often dusty vegetation that is now covered in toxic herbicide reside. In no way is this good for the environmental or one’s health.
A better approach would be to cut down and remove all the vegetation first. Then allow a few weeks for growth to regenerate from the cut stumps. Spray this tender young vegetation. Herbicides are much more effective on this type of growth. Less chemical spray will be used in a more concentrated area plus there is less possibility of becoming covered in toxic chemical residue. A few weeks later go back and respray any regrowth. That should eliminate the problem.
- Remember that applying anything poisonous that will kill a plant will also potentially do the same thing to you.
- Avoid any physical contact with the poison through breathing or allowing it to touch your skin!
- Dress appropriately as if you were heading to Mars.
- Then afterward head immediately into the shower with a generous application of double soap. No drinking, eating or smoking in between.
- All your contaminated clothing goes into the laundry with double soap and are washed separately to anything else.
- Then wash out the machine afterwards to insure no residual poison remains in the machine to contaminate other clothing.
- Boots, gloves, mask and sprayer are thoroughly washed.
- No matter how “safe” any herbicidal or insecticidal product may be advertised, if it has a warning label, it isn’t safe! Most likely if you don’t follow this advice nothing much at all will happen to you now.
- But in years to come will it matter that you killed a few insects or noxious plants if the consequence is that you lose precious years off your life? Please be sensible and prosper.
Plan and Prepare Now!
To take full advantage of the Ideal gardening conditions ahead, plan and prepare now! Gardeners could start planting with renewed confidence right after the New Moon (20 October). So now is the time to plan and gather all materials, plants and seeds needed for what will begin next week.
Next week it will be possible to plant and sow a wide range of things for the Late Spring, Summer and Autumn garden. Seedlings and advanced container plants often suit the busy City Gardener. Planting from seed takes more patience and time but rewards with a vast range of interesting species and a far greater number of plants for far less cost. For those with the space and time who want abundant flowers and large harvests, seeding is the answer and now is the time to start!
Plan and prepare for the planting of hardy and tender Early Summer-flowering Annuals, Perennials; ornamental shrubs, trees and vines before weather becomes too dry and hot. There may be a few opportunities for planting this week. But after the New Moon conditions will improve through the end of the month and throughout much of November.
Best planting days are often cloudy and damp without much wind that could dry them out. Make sure to water generously at planting time. Also provide mulch around all these fresh new plantings to protect them against dry, windy weather ahead. Watch all new plantings on a regular basis for signs of stress or wilting. Water and liquid feed regularly to maintain healthy and strong growth.
What to Plant and Sow:
While planting anything soft and tender like young seedlings could be challenging, this is still an acceptable time to plant anything dormant and/or hardy. This would include most Summer bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers; many hardy native shrubs transplanted from containers; Cacti and most succulent plants; hardy subtropical Bromeliads; many hardy plants carefully shifted from established containers; also seeds with hard coatings that are sometimes difficult to germinate.
The important point here is to ensure that there is no major root damage or disturbance when transplanting. Make sure that everything is well watered-in immediately and daily thereafter until it becomes obviously established in its new position. Watch everything carefully for signs of predation from disease and pests or environmental stress. Because this is Mid Spring, most plants will be “forgiving” even if planted or sown at the “wrong” time. But because this is the time of building lunar extremes, be forever careful and watchful when handling anything delicate.
Time to Sow:
Weather permitting; this is a superb time to sow seed. Provided that conditions remain bright, mild and moist, germination will probably be rapid and successful. The secret with seed is maintaining warm soil. Heating cables and/or a heated glasshouse or a warm and sunny windowsill help immensely when sowing ‘tender’ seed. Hardy outdoor seedlings and their seed can be started with less difficulty. But let the return of sunny, warm days dictate what gets planted.
Before starting, remember that best results come when there is a plan in mind. Make sure all beds, planter boxes and seed containers are prepared. Make sure the site has been baited in advance to eliminate Slugs and Snails. Insure an adequate water supply and plenty of liquid fertilizer to help establish germination and new growth.
If in doubt, prepare this week and plant and/or sow next week when the Early Waxing Moon Cycle of Late Spring favours the planting of leafy vegetables, ornamental foliage plants of all sorts, general above-ground and leafy development, plus anything that flowers and/or produces its crops above the ground.
These conditions often make transplanting easy and successful. This is also an excellent time to pinch back established seedlings and young growth to induce better branching and flowering. Pruning now will encourage improved new root development and later bushier top growth for better and more prolific cropping and flowering.
Vegetables:
This is still a good time to sow hardy vegetable seed of root crops. Also sow for vegetables that produce their crops above the ground, especially leafy vegetables.
Vegetables to Plant With Care or Sow:
Artichoke, Asparagus seed, Beans*,Beets, Cabbages, Cape Gooseberry, Capsicum*, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Chinese Cabbage and most Asian leafy greens, Choko*, Cress, Cucumber*, Eggplant*, Endive, Kohlrabi, Kumara*, Leeks, Lettuce, Luffa*, Marrow*, Melons*, Mustard, Okra*,Spring Onions, Parsley and Herbs, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Pumpkins*,Radish, Rhubarb, Salsify, Silverbeet, Spinach, Squash*,Sweet Corn*, Sweet Potato*, Tamarillo*, Taro*, Tobacco*, Tomato*, Turnip, Yam, Zucchini* and much more locally.
Anything marked (*) is a ‘tender’ Summer Vegetable i.e. varieties native to subtropical and tropical zones that demand warm condition. In most climates these are best started from seed or seedlings transplanted into pots or punnets sheltered in a very sunny and warm spot outdoors (preferably underneath a cloche) or in the glasshouse or nursery. Grow them on there with the plan to plant them out later once weather fully warms. Alternatively try planting or sowing seed under frost cloth.
Summer ‘Tender’ Vegetables include:
Artichoke, Beans, Capsicum, Choko, Cucumber, Eggplant, Kumara and Sweet Potato, Luffa, Marrow, Melon, Okra, Pumpkins, Squash, Sweet Corn (best sown direct from seed where they are meant to grow), Tamarillo, Taro, Tobacco, Tomato, Zucchini and more locally.
There is no advantage attempting to sow or transplant any of these tender Summer vegetables outdoors into cold, damp ground or anywhere where they might experience even the least chilling winds. It is a common mistake of the Novice Gardener thinking that getting an “early start” will guarantee quicker harvests. It doesn’t usually work that way. A single cold night is all it takes to chill these plants and these often never fully recover or outright die. Those seedlings planted just a few weeks later, once air and soil temperatures are much higher, almost always catch up and surpass those sacrificial seedlings planted too early. It can be done, but this will require cloches, frost cloth or some other form of protection against the odd cold day and evening.
Most of these tender crops also resent root disturbance and may fail or stunt when roots are damaged, especially when transplanting. Thus it is best to start them in individual containers, pots or punnets with only one or just a few seedlings grown in each. Once roots begin to show through the bottom drainage holes and the weather is consistently mild, they can be carefully slipped out of their container with as little root disturbance and loss of dirt as possible and planted into their final growing position.
Kumara & Sweet Potato Sprouts and Yams:
These important root crop vegetables can be planted now in the open ground wherever ground temperatures have thoroughly warmed. Kumara and Sweet Potatoes appear quite different from Yam tubers (a South American, Andes member of the Oxalis Family), but their culture is very similar and much like that of Potato. Place on mounds or raised rows of enriched, well-drained earth with plenty of space between plants. Their planting site should be airy and open; constantly sunny and warm. Kumaras are often planted over boards or sheets of black plastic, submerged in the soil. This forces their edible tuberous roots to grow horizontally just below the surface, rather than penetrating deeply into the soil where they can be difficult to harvest. Wherever Summer weather could become very dry and hot, apply a light fluffy mulch around the leafy foliage to keep the tubers from baking or scorching. Water deeply whenever conditions become dry, then let soil dry out before watering again. Yams will perform fairly well even in rather poorer soils and at lower temperatures. They also need a very long growing season. Their tubers begin forming once day length becomes shorter than nights (after the Autumnal Equinox).
Flower Gardens:
With care, plant a wide range of hardy seedlings and sow seed for the flower garden. This includes many annuals, biennials, bulbs and perennials that also start easily now from seed. All of these can be planted or sown throughout most of the remainder of this month. Protect tender species from late cold conditions with cloches or frost cloth. If in doubt start everything with bottom heat or in a very sheltered, sunny and warm position; especially protected from evening cold. Just a few cold nights can chill and ruin a tender young flower crop so treat them like the tender babies they are!
Flowers to Sow or Carefully Transplant as Seedlings:
Ageratum, Alyssum, Amaranthus, Arctotis, Aster (excellent time to sow), Balsam, Basil, Begonias, Bells of Ireland, Boronia, California Poppy, Calendula, Calliopsis, Canterbury Bells, Carnation, Celosia, Clarkia, Cleome, Chrysanthemum, Coleus, Coneflower, Cornflower, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Cyclamen, Dahlia, Delphinium, Dianthus, Blue Lace Flower, all everlasting flowers, Feverfew, Forget-Me-Not, Freesia, Gaillardia, Gazania, Geranium (Pelargoniums) plus true Geraniums, Gerbera, Geum, Globe Amaranthus, Gloxinia, Godetia, Gypsophila, Honesty (Lunaria),Impatiens, Kochia, Larkspur, Linum, Linaria, Marigold, Nasturtium, Ornamental Peppers, Petunia, Phlox, Portulaca, Rudbeckia, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Schizanthus, Snapdragon, Statice, Strawflower, Sturts Desert Pea, Sunflower, Swan River Daisy, Sweet William, Tithonia, Thunbergia, Verbena, Viscaria, Zinnia and much more locally.
Perennials:
Perennials can be sown from seed. Most of these will flower next year and thereafter. Alternatively, plant advanced container-grown perennials that will probably flower this growing season and then multiply into larger clumps in years-to-come.
Perennials to Carefully Plant and Sow Now:
Achillea, Agapanthus, Anemone (Coronaria, Japanese and species), Aster, Canna, Carnation, Centaurea, Clematis, Coreopsis, Dianthus, Digitalis (Foxglove), Gaillardia, Gaura, Gazania, Gerbera, Geum, Gypsophila, Helleborus (Winter Rose), Heuchera (Coral Bells), Lupin, Lychnis, Maclaeya (Plum Poppy), Meconopsis (Tibetan Blue Poppy), Myosotium (Chatham Island Forget-Me-Not), Nymphaea (Water Lily), Nierembergia, Omphalodes, Oenothera (Evening Primrose), Penstemon, Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Platycodon (Balloon Flower), Pyrethrum (Painted Daisy), Romneya (Tree Poppy), Rudbeckia (Brown Eyed Susan), Salvias, Scabiosa (Pin Cushion Flowers), Sedums, Solidago (Goldenrod), Stokesia, Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise), Streptocarpus (Cape Primrose), Thyme, Venidium, Violets, Zantedeschia and much more locally.
Polyanthus, Primulas and Violet species can be lifted, divided and replanted once their flowering finishes. While all these enjoy sunny and warm Winter positions, they often collapse if left in the same sunny spot through hot Summer climates. In such climates, plants are often moved into seedling flats or pots placed in a cool, moist, partly shady spot to grow on over the Summer. Then they are replanted into their flowering positions once weather cools in Autumn. In cooler climates simply divide, replant, feed and water-on for Summer growth. All these species are ideally suited to deciduous woodland positions that provide them Winter and early Spring sunshine and cool, dappled shade through the Summer.
Bulbs, Corms, Rhizomes, Roots, and Tubers:
These Summer flowering ‘bulbs’ can be easily planted all month: Achimenes, Acidanthera, Agapanthus, Amaryllis, Arum, Caladium, Calla, Canna, Crinum, Dahlia, Eucomis (Pineapple Lily), Galtonia (Cape Hyacinth), Gladioli, Gloriosa Lily, Gloxinia, Hedychium (Edible and Ornamental Gingers), Hemerocallis, Hippeastrum (Amaryllis), Hymenocallis (Ismene), Ranunculus (cold climates), Tigridia (Shell Flower), Tuberose, Tuberous Begonias, Zantedeschia (Arum/Calla) and more.
When planted now during the Full Waning Moon Cycle this week, they often take root quickly. Then next week as the Waxing Moon Cycle develops, these often make quick top growth and later produce excellent flowering. With adequate feeding and light watering brilliant results can come from planting now and throughout the remainder of the month.
For Northern Hemisphere Gardeners this is an excellent time to start planting Spring-flowering bulbs: all the classics like: Crocus, Daffodil (Narcissus varieties), Hyacinth, Tulips and many more. Pop some into refrigeration to force early blooms that will be treasured during cold and dreary winter days. In the Northern Hemisphere’s cooler temperate zones this is when tender Summer-flowering ‘bulbs’ (Caladium, Canna, Dahlia, Gladioli, Hippeastrum, Tuberous Begonia and the remainder listed above) are dug up for protective Winter storage. In mild Southern gardens, these bulbs may be left in the ground, provided their surrounding soil is well drained, but should be mulched against possible wintry freezes.
Back in the Southern Hemisphere gardens:
Gladioli are excellent when planted now in most areas, especially cooler and temperate zone climates. They take between 90-110 days from planting until flowering. When Gladioli are planted now, they will flower in Mid Summer when conditions are ideal for their culture. Dig soil deeply. Add to the soil mature compost and/or good quality Bulb Food or General Plant Fertilizer. Plant corms 4-6inches/10-15cm deep and be prepared to stake against winds as blooms will be top-heavy. Water deeply after planting and keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy.
In humid subtropical locations, Gladioli are often plagued with rust disease. For this reason corms are early planted (late August-September) which often avoids rust. When planted now the corms can be shucked of their outer papery skin and then soaked in a suitable systemic fungicide just prior to planting. This greatly helps reduce rust entering the flesh of the corm. Then start spraying regularly (every 10-14 days) from at least the third leaf stage to help control this problem. Choose a very airy and open site in full sunshine. Soil should be well enriched; freely draining with lime added to help prevent rust infections.
Gloxinias:
Gloxinias are closely related to African Violets and require similar care. They are sometimes difficult to find because just like African Violets they can be somewhat difficult to grow. But once you discover their rather simple growing requirements, they are so worth the effort involved. These are truly exotic treasures of the natural world.
Gloxinias are wonderful house and conservatory plants doing well in containers and especially baskets. Their ancestry originated as tropical rainforest understory groundcover type plants. Thus they require sustained humid and warm (never hot) conditions that are sometimes found in better quality home environments. Bright light is essential to keep the plants compact. They do exceptionally well when grown beneath artificial Grow Lights. Morning ‘soft’ direct sunshine is good for them but avoid any glaring or hot sunshine or leaves will scorch.
They can be planted in succession to extend the flowering period from now onward for Summer & Autumn flowers. Place the corm-like tuber just below the surface in a pot of basket. Gloxinias perform best when planted into an enriched but very porous potting mix suitable for African Violets. Water once lightly at planting and only again if the soil becomes dry. Once growth commences continue to water only sparingly as overwatering encourages rotting. All they need is to be kept just lightly moist. Water at room temperate is best and should be chlorine-free. This is easy enough to accomplish by letting the water stand in a container overnight. Rainwater is ideal.
Place in a very bright (never hotly sunny) warm position with good air circulation. Soon small velvety leaves will appear. Once they do start into active growth provide light and regular feeding with African Violet liquid food or a pinch of Tomato Fertiliser every few weeks. Place this at the inside end of the pot.
Of special importance:
Avoid any water or liquid fertilizer remaining on the foliage or flowers. Always water between the leaves or a much safer method is to water the plant from beneath into a saucer, which works the best, then drain off excess water. When water falls on the foliage, immediately blow or gently shake it off, especially out of the central crown to avoid rot or leaf spotting.
Gloxinia flowers are divinely exotic and their velvety pad foliage is equally as beautiful. This is a show pony plant worthy of its own decorative container.
Once flowering finishes, continue feeding lightly and allow its foliage to mature. It then will slowly wither and the remnants can be carefully cut away and removed. Sometimes one or more new sprouts will take their place. If not, simply set the pot aside in a moderately cool and dry place for at least 6 weeks. Then repot and start the cycle again. Gloxinia tubers can last for many years and grow in size and beauty with proper care.
Tuberous Begonias:
Tuberous Begonias are beautiful and bold aristocrats of the Summer garden. Their somewhat succulent and almost waxy blossoms often resemble Camellia blooms on dwarf, stock plants with fleshy stems and handsome ‘Angel-wing leaves. Tuberous Begonias usually thrive when started now.
Start them under similar mild, sheltered and very bright or sunny conditions as Gloxinia. Their ancestors came from Brazilian rainforest and tropical conditions. So they require consistent moderate to warm conditions and dislike chilling or cold drafts. They require a similar soil that is freely draining and peaty.
The cup-shaped and somewhat furry tubers can be first started on a mildly sunny and warm windowsill without soil. Alternatively, they are often started in smaller pots intended for later transplanting. Plant with the cup facing upwards and just barely cover over the top with fine soil. At planting either don’t water at all or just the smallest amount to avoid rotting the tubers. Emerging shoots are usually a pretty shade of pink or light green. These are quite tender and easily damaged or broken off if accidently knocked. Tuberous Begonias are much hardier once they become established. Snails and Slugs like them too! Once growth attains 1-2inches/2.5-5cm in height, start watering a little more often and liquid feeding at half strength.
Transplant the tubers once shoots are 2-6inches/5-15cm tall. For exhibition blooms the sprouted Tuberous Begonias are later transplanted into larger pots or tubs. Once weather settles, they can be planted outdoors into well-worked and enriched beds. They need a sheltered garden with bright morning sunshine; dappled sunshine through a slightly shaded canopy of shrubs or trees or when grown in very bright indirect light. They tolerate full sunshine in cooler Summer climates where they make stunning bedding plants. But if ever they become dry and hot in fully sunny locations Tuberous Begonias tend to stunt and leaves may burn, scorch or yellow. Tuberous Begonias are often at their finest in a controlled conservatory or glasshouse environment, or sheltered deck or patio outdoors.
Cyclamen:
Cyclamen are a cool season classic that often takes 6-8 months to reach maturity. Sow Cyclamen seed now for next years’ flowers in light, gravely or sandy potting mix. Deeply soak both seed & mix at planting then maintain just lightly moist in a bright or partly shaded warm spot or glasshouse. Seed often germinates best when not exposed to direct sunlight. They are often successfully started in pots placed within a plastic bag loosely closed over the top that creates a mini terrarium environment. Germination is erratic. Let the seedlings grow on until they develop several mature leaves. Then prick out the Cyclamen seedlings into individual pots and continue growing on throughout the warmer months in airy, cool, partly shaded conditions with light but regular feeding. Avoid overwatering to avoid damp-off fungus or rotting.
Mature Cyclamen that blooms over the Winter and Early Spring probably have finished blooming now, or usually will as soon as weather becomes consistently warmer. Leaves begin to yellow and wither. Reduce watering and stop feeding so that the plants can enter dormancy. If they are in pots, move these to someplace where they can stay relatively dry and at least partially shaded. Alternatively, move them to beneath the bench in a glasshouse. Their corms will usually remain dormant throughout the warm months. Once they spring back into life in Late Summer or Autumn they can be repotted, fed and lightly watered to start their growing cycle again.
Cuttings:
As soon as weather begins to warm, start cuttings from a variety of (sub) tropical and house plants. Also many perennials like Chrysanthemum, Dahlia, Lavender and hundreds of other herbaceous plants and shrubs can be started from cuttings now. Smaller to medium length cuttings 5-8inches/12.5-20cm usually work best. Take these from the top or sunny side of the plant; alternatively from a layered side shoot.
Pinch out the tender growing tip and remove lower leaves, leaving only a couple of leaves at the top. It is often helpful to place the cut end of the cutting in hormone gel or powder and let it soak in this for a minute or two.
Then fill a 6-10inch pot15-25 cm pot with clean sand; sand/peat or pumice mix. Thoroughly wet the mixture. Using a stick or something the size of a pencil, make dibble holes in the propagating sand and gently drop (don’t push) the cutting into the hole. This way the hormone is not pushed off the base of each cutting. Then fill in with more sand and firm down against each cutting so there is thorough contact with the soil. It is permissible to lightly mist or carefully lightly water over the cuttings.
Cuttings usually strike quickly if kept bright, humid and warm. A warm glasshouse or sheltered cold frame makes the best environment. But a simple terrarium can be made by placing the pot of cuttings inside a clear plastic bag. Draw up the sides around and over the pot and loosely tie over the top. Place in a very bright, but not hot and sunny spot and maintain constant warm temperatures out of chilling drafts and maintain even soil moisture. With any luck cuttings will strike in a few weeks.
Ornamental Shrubs, Trees & Vines:
This is a good to time plant a wide variety of ornamental groundcovers, shrubs, trees and vines that are to be transplanted from established containers. Many can be shifted and transplanted now provided they can be regularly cared for and watered until they become established. Better planting conditions will continue through the remainder of the month into next month. But the critical factor here is not so much getting them planted now as insuring that they remain well cared for and watered in the drier months that follow. This requires a bit more of a commitment than the same plants established from Autumn and Winter plantings when rainfall was guaranteed.
Feed ornamental shrubs, trees, and vines to encourage new growth. Also include all brambles and cane fruit, fruiting shrubs, trees and vines. A general feeding mix would include a balanced General Garden fertiliser or Slow Release Plant Food plus blood and bone, mixed with well-aged manure or mature compost spread as a mulch around the plant to its drip-line. Mix one cup of the chemical fertiliser into one bucket of compost/manure.
Organic Gardeners can substitute a mix of equal parts: blood and bone; rock phosphate; and green stone or well-aged wood ashes.
Most fruiting and ornamental species also benefit from a dusting of Dolomite Lime. Avoid Garden Lime (with a much higher pH) on all acid-loving species which includes most Bramble and Cane Fruits, Blueberries; Azalea, Camellias, Daphne, Gardenia, Holly, Pieris and Rhododendron species.
Continue mulching everything in preparation for the dry and hot weather ahead. When artificial watering is necessary, make this deep and long but less frequent, perhaps just once a week, so as to encourage deeper rooting. Frequent shallow watering will encourage surface rooting which will make the plants increasingly more dependent on extra artificial watering as the season becomes progressively drier.
Citrus:
Continue to feed Citrus lightly and evenly from near the trunk outward to the drip line. Little and often suits them best. This is also an excellent time to plant Citrus. They can also be pruned now to eliminate diseased and weak or non-flowering growth. But heavy pruning will eliminate flowering and fruiting this season. However, if the pruning is intended to stimulate healthy new growth now is the right time.
Spray all Citrus now. Many problems with disease, fungus and pests start as the weather becomes more humid and warm. New emerging fruits and foliage are quite tender and vulnerable so are easily attacked. This can happen quite quickly and nearly invisibly. Such damage can disfigure and/or stunt future development of fruit as well as ruin new growth. A comprehensive spraying of the trees now can often prevent this unfortunate consequence. Special Citrus sprays are easily purchased. Organic Gardeners often prefer a simple spraying oil or even liquid soap mixed with Champion (liquid) or powdered Copper, while some choose Neem Oil. Possums can be stopped by spraying over thoroughly wet foliage with fish emulsion.
If the trees are bearing edible fruit that is nearing maturity, use an ‘organic’ contact spray to eliminate fungus and insect pests. If the trees are free from edible fruit but new flowers and young fruits are emerging, this can be one of the best times for a comprehensive systemic spray to protect the trees from damage in the coming months.
Make sure Citrus remain well watered so that fruit and new growth expand properly as they should. If new fruits are damaged or become stunted from disease or drought at this early stage of development, they often soon drop off and the crop is lost.
Holiday Gardens:
Think about holiday displays now! This a great time to start planning and planting displays for the Christmas holidays.
Southern Hemisphere Gardeners:
Sow and plant a huge range of annuals and perennials. Advanced annual seedlings planted in the weeks ahead will be in full bloom for the Christmas holiday season if started now. Often container-planted perennials will be flowering then, too. While seed sown now will either be in full growth or just producing their early blooms. For the very best effect, plant your holiday garden advanced seedlings now and sow seed of a similar or contrasting variety around them. This way there will be flowers popping up quite soon and emerging seedlings that will overtake them to continue the show well into the New Year, often until frost.
Northern Hemisphere Gardeners heading into Mid Autumn should continue to pot Spring Flowering Bulbs for Winter forcing. Also pot on Gloxinia and place these along with African Violets under agricultural lights or in strong morning or a full southern sunshine in a constantly warm position indoors, in the conservatory or glasshouse. Pot up Hippeastrum (Amaryllis), Lilium longiflorum and Asiatic Lily bulbs and grow these in the brightest positions possible. Keep them moderately warm; out of chilling drafts and avoid overwatering, especially during cloudy and colder weather.
Repot Cyclamen, Kalanchoe and Primulas, especially Primula obconica if you would like to grow them on for another season of flowering. Use an enriched but freely draining house plant or general potting mix. Keep these in a bright position, either in the cool glasshouse or indoors in at least morning sunshine or stronger light. These plants all necessitate cooler temperatures, especially during the evening hours. So place them in an unheated (but never freezing) room. Alternatively, grow them on a windowsill and close curtains over them in the evening to keep them from rotting or withering in heated rooms.
Keep Poinsettias lightly and regularly fed and watered in a very bright or sunny environment. For all but the warmest regions, they are grown indoors or in a heated glasshouse. In Southern Hemisphere blooms are finished and bracts are fading. Now is the time to trim them back. Take cuttings for new plants now and onward for the next several months. Lay the cuttings on their side out of direct sun for at least a few hours until they stop bleeding. Then start them in pumice in a bright and warm position.
Poinsettias are short-day-length plants. That means that they naturally set blooming buds and produce bright bract leaves after the Autumnal Equinox when day length becomes less than 12 hours each day. So if the plants are grown where there is artificial lighting nearby they need complete shading from all light sources each evening for at least 12 to 14 hours. Poinsettia plants intended for Christmas display need to be placed in a growing environment that meets their special lighting requirements starting now. The first bract leaves and tiny flower buds may begin to emerge from the growing tips any time from later this month or next.
The Moon Waxes strongly all week. First Quarter Moon arrives 28 October shortly after the Moon begins to descend in Southern Hemisphere skies. Night time skies continue to brighten throughout the week as we head toward a perigee ‘Super’ Full Moon 4 November. Mid spring is evolving into Late Spring and all of Nature feels it coming. Plant whatever you like now for the warm season ahead is about to begin.
Daylight hours and sunlight intensity continue to increase throughout the Southern Hemisphere along with the increasing moonlight and (hopefully) added warmth. Water retention in plant tissues is increasing as the ‘Super’ Moon approaches which makes transplanting much easier and more successful. This should potentially strengthen plants and enhances a very good planting week that gets better in the times to come.
This transitional period marks the passage between Mid Spring when the tide of wintry cool air ebbs away and is overtaken by hushed moments of humid mild warmth when Late Spring air brings the first touches that hint of Summer to come. When compared to ancient Gaelic ritual ceremonies, this moment in time represents Beltane, the halfway point between the Vernal Equinox and the Summer Solstice. In Northern Hemisphere this time traditionally equates to their May Day celebrations. Certainly here in the Southern Hemisphere, this is also a time worthy of seasonal celebration.
Most importantly, this moment represents the time when the Sun begins to move over New Zealand. Light intensity greatly increases as does day length for some time to come. The air and ground temperatures finally begin to become warm enough to safely plant out tender Summer flowers and vegetable crops. The warm season is finally about to begin: a true moment for celebration!
Halloween 31 October is the ancient Gaelic festival of Samhain, marking the end of the harvest season in the Northern Hemisphere. This represents the halfway point between the Autumnal Equinox and the Winter Solstice. It was considered a brief moment in time when the door to the Otherworld opened. Often this ‘Hallowed’ or ‘holy’, sacred’ evening was around the time of the first killing frost. The morning after the frost as the rising Sun heated the cold ground; steamy vapours would silently rise upward like ghostly spirits ascending into Heaven. All sorts of celebrations arose around this seasonal event as they bid ‘good bye’ with thanks for the warm season now passing. But none of this really relates at all to what is happening here in the Southern Hemisphere. For us this is not a time to lament with the goblins and spooks but now is the time to put on your dancing shoes!
Okay, all romantic notions set aside briefly for a reality check. The Moon’s gravitational influence is increasing over the Southern Hemisphere this week as it ascends in our skies. This often fosters the development of milder westerly winds and can push in humid, warm weather systems that sweep in from the northwest. It looks as if the warm season is truly with us. Then on the 25-26 October the Moon turns and heads north again. As it does its gravitational pull often drags up a rogue Antarctic blast that would most likely affect colder climate regions but might briefly sweep the entire country. While Labour Day (23 October) is traditionally considered the “safe” time to plant out all tender warm weather flowers and vegetables, just keep this in mind in the days that follow and be ready to shelter tender treasures from a possible brief but rude reality check.
If weather appears to be at all extreme or inclement, delay planting until next week. The Full Moon (4 November) ushers in much more benevolent and reliable planting and sowing conditions.
With any luck this is an excellent time to plant a wide variety of flowers and vegetables that produce their crops above the ground from seed and seedlings. Also start the seed of exotic and native groundcovers, shrubs and trees; plant a huge variety of container-grown annuals, biennials and perennials; groundcovers; fruiting and ornamental shrubs, trees and vines; Roses; pond/water plants; most warm season bulbs, corms, rhizomes, roots and tubers; broad-leafed evergreens and conifers; Citrus; subtropicals in milder climates and start repotting most container plants including houseplants.
Gardeners who plan to grow exhibition root crop vegetables and especially anyone wishing to grow the best and longest Carrots and Parsnips possible should plan to sow their seed this week. The secret is to sow their seed into specially prepared deeply dug beds or deep containers filled with an enriched mix of loam, peat and sand.
As the Moon reaches its Full Waxing phase (28Oct.- 4 Nov.) provided conditions remain favourable, their seed will begin to sprout right around the Full Moon (4 November). The Full Moon is the time of greatest light and water retention. It greatly favours strong germination and growth. This is very beneficial for the rapid development of healthy young seedlings.
Then after the Full Moon and for the following two weeks, the Moons’ orbit around the Earth once again moves it toward alignment with the Sun. As the position of the Moon and Sun move closer together this increases their gravitational pull here on Earth. This is especially true during the evening hours when the Moon and Sun move below the horizon and their gravitational pull combines with that of the Earth’s gravity creating a strong downward pull into the ground.
This pulls emerging roots downward deeply into the soil resulting in strong root development that is often greatly elongated. Eventually when these young roots expand and mature, they create exhibition root crop vegetables; especially Carrots, Cylindrical Beets and Radishes plus Parsnips and many other root crops. This natural gravitational cycle can be used to enhance the growth of all root crops and also any other plant which would benefit from strong root development before top growth begins.
These crops were planted much earlier and now should be producing good harvests. In all districts and especially colder climates wherever night time air and soil temperatures remain below 12C/53.6F, concentrate on planting and sowing more of these hardy vegetables.
Artichoke, Beets, Cabbages, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Chicory, Cress, Endive, Gooseberry, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Spring Onions, Parsley and Herbs, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Radish, Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinach, Turnip, Yam.
These are all great vegetables to plant in all climate zones. Most of them do exceptionally well in cooler climates.
In milder climates and warm positions where air, soil and evening temperatures remain above 12C/53.6F here is a much larger list of Vegetables that could be started now.
Artichoke, Asparagus seed, Beans*,Beets, Cabbages, Cape Gooseberry, Capsicum*, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Chinese Cabbage and most Asian leafy greens, Choko*,Cress, Cucumber*,Eggplant*,Endive, Kohlrabi, Kumara*, Leeks, Lettuce, Luffa*,Marrow*,Melons*, Mustard, Okra*,Spring Onions, Parsley and Herbs, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Pumpkins*,Radish, Rhubarb, Salsify, Silverbeet, Spinach, Squash*,Sweet Corn*, Sweet Potato*,Tamarillo*,Taro*,Tobacco*,Tomato*,Turnip, Yam, Zucchini and much more locally.
Anything marked (*) is a tender Summer Vegetable. These all need a sheltered, warm position preferably in the glasshouse or under cloches. Most are best sown from seed or (purchased) seedlings started in pots or punnets sheltered in a very sunny and warm spot outdoors; underneath a cloche, or in the glasshouse or nursery. Grow them on there with the plan to plant them out later once weather fully warms. Alternatively try planting or sowing seed under frost cloth.
Many of these tender crops resent root disturbance and may fail or stunt when roots are damaged, especially when transplanting. Thus it is best to start them in individual containers, pots or punnets with only one or just a few seedlings grown in each. Once roots begin to show through the bottom drainage holes, they can be carefully slipped out of their container with as little root disturbance and minimum loss of dirt as possible and carefully but quickly planted into their final growing position.
Artichoke, Beans*, Beet, Cabbages, Carrot*, Cauliflower, Cucumber*, Egg Plant, Endive, Gourd*, Leek, Luffa*, Melons*, Onions, Parsley, Parsnip*, Peas*, Potatoes, Pumpkin*, Radish, Rhubarb, Squash*, Sweet Corn*, Taro, Tomato, Turnip*, Yams, Vegetable Marrow* and more in local climates.
All Vegetables marked with an (*) are very difficult to transplant because their roots are extremely delicate and sensitive. Use greatest care when transplanting from established individual containers. Alternatively, sow their seed directly into the position where they are intended to grow once soil is warm enough for Tomato seed to germinate outdoors. They almost always perform best when sown from seed this way.
Plant a wide range of hardy seedlings and sow seed for the flower garden. This includes many bulbs and perennials that also can be easily started now from seed. Protect tender species from late cold conditions with cloches or frost cloth. If in doubt start everything with bottom heat or in a very sheltered, sunny and warm position; especially protected from evening cold. Just a few cold nights can chill and ruin a tender young flower crop so treat them like the tender babies they are!
Ageratum, Alyssum, Amaranthus, Arctotis, Aster (excellent time to sow), Balsam, Basil, Begonias, Bells of Ireland, Boronia, California Poppy, Calendula, Calliopsis, Canterbury Bells, Carnation, Celosia, Clarkia, Cleome, Chrysanthemum, Coleus, Coneflower, Cornflower, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Cyclamen, Dahlia, Delphinium, Dianthus, Blue Lace Flower, all everlasting flowers, Feverfew, Forget-Me-Not, Freesia, Gaillardia, Gazania, Geranium (Pelargoniums) plus true Geraniums, Gerbera, Geum, Globe Amaranthus, Gloxinia, Godetia, Gypsophila, Honesty (Lunaria),Impatiens, Kochia, Larkspur, Linum, Linaria, Marigold, Nasturtium, Ornamental Peppers, Petunia, Phlox, Portulaca, Rudbeckia, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Schizanthus, Snapdragon, Statice, Strawflower, Sturts Desert Pea, Sunflower, Swan River Daisy, Sweet William, Tithonia, Thunbergia, Verbena, Viscaria, Zinnia and much more locally.
Because the Sun has now risen sufficiently high into Southern Hemisphere skies, air and soil temperatures should increase sufficiently to start planting out ‘tender’ plants in all but the coldest climates. So this is traditionally considered to be a very good time to start planting the vegetable garden for Late Spring and Summer harvests. In all but the coldest climates the soil temperature has possibly risen high enough for successful seed sowing and transplanting of most crops.
To know when the soil temperature is warm enough to start planting out tender Summer flowers and vegetables is easy to determine for your specific garden location. Sow some Tomato seed in the open ground of the garden or into a container placed in the intended growing area. If the seed comes up quickly and survives without adverse effects, the soil is warm enough.
Another way is to watch the development of emerging foliage on the shrubs and trees. Once new season foliage has begun to advance on most shrubs and trees the soil is warm enough to plant safely. In temperate climates this is classically when the Pin Oaks begin to form new leaves. Prepared beds and planters should be ready by then. Once the Pin Oaks are nearly in full leaf the soil is warm enough for safe planting of tender crops. In subtropical climates wait until the Jacarandas begin to show signs of new season foliage or bud development. Then all subtropical fruits can be planted and sown.
Warming days are very tempting for planting out tender Summer flowers and vegetables. This includes palms, subtropical, tropical species. In the most sheltered positions and very warmest climates plus in the glasshouse, this is permissible. But be guarded as this time in the month is likely to be changeable and possibly extreme. If in doubt, refrain from planting out anything tender in most cool or colder climate gardens without protection with cloches or frost cloth. This transitional time in the season is famous for rapid temperature extremes, hail, pelting rains and winds that can quickly ruin sensitive plantings.
Tender Summer Vegetables need consistently warm air and soil temperatures for successful performance so should only be planted directly into their final growing positions in very warm and sheltered gardens. If temperatures in your region remain cool, avoid the temptation to plant-out tender vegetables too early as this is one of the greatest reasons such crops fail to perform as well as they should. If in doubt, plant and sow into containers kept in a sheltered ad sunny spot with the intention to plant outdoors once the weather is thoroughly settled.
The minimum soil temperature for successful sowing and transplanting of tender warm weather crops is (12-15C/53.4-59F). Most tender vegetables like Egg Plant and Tomatoes really want warm soil temperatures above 18C/64.4F or optimum above 211C/70F up to about 29.4C/85F. This includes Passion Fruit Vines, Tamarillo and most subtropical fruits and vegetables.
We hardly ever reach this optimum ground temperature for long in New Zealand, consequently our harvest season is much shorter than it could be were our climate more subtropical. By planting in the very warmest spots, we gain the greatest advantage. Planting through slits made in a sheet of black plastic or Weedmat pinned over the enriched earth often gets better results because the black covering heats the ground to a much higher temperature.
here is no advantage attempting to plant or sow tender plants into cold, wet conditions without adequate protection. This is a silent disaster waiting to rot them away before your eyes. If the roots of tender Summer Vegetables are ever exposed to excessive cold, they chill, then become stressed and often lose health and vigour. They will almost always be damaged beyond repair. While they may sometimes appear to recover ultimately many stressed plants fall victim to blights, disease and pest attack. Such crops seldom succeed. The secret is to keep them warm and pampered.
Gardeners working in sheltered gardens where night time temperatures seldom fall below 10-12C/50-53.6F can already plant out tender Summer flowers and vegetables. While in cold, exposed sites it would be better to wait a few more weeks. Start tender seed and seedlings in small containers sheltered in a cold frame, glasshouse or sunny and warm nursery where they can grow and develop safely and be planted out once outside temperatures thoroughly warm. Seedlings can also be sown beneath cloches. Almost all seed germination rates increase with extra bottom heat.
While some seed needs darkness to germinate (being slightly buried under soil), warm sunshine or its equivalent is essential for most germinating seed and certainly for optimum seedling growth! It is essential that the germination site is very bright and/or fully sunny or seedlings will stretch and may ultimately prove useless.
When conditions remain cloudy and colder, germination and growth is slowed. There is also the possibility of crown; root and seed rot if soil does not drain well or if the plants are subjected to chilling rain and/or winds or colder evening temperatures. Remain alert and be prepared to cover and protect everything immediately should the weather begin to turn inclement.
Caladium, Canna, Dahlia, Gladioli, Gloxinia, Hippeastrum, Japanese Iris, Tuberose, Tuberous Begonia, Water Lilies and many more, especially herbaceous perennials from containers or sown from seed.