This week in the Garden for October

This Third Week in the Mid Spring Garden:

week one

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week two

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week three

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week four

Full Waning Last Quarter Moon deepens into the Dark of the Moon (17-19 Oct.) before the New Moon (20 October). This New Moon marks the lunar beginning of Late Spring. It is the time of Diwali, the Festival of Light and victory of Light over darkness; good triumphant over evil. This should be a good gardening week ahead for root development. Sow all root crop vegetables; and plant dormant bulbs corms, rhizomes, roots and tubers especially those that produce beautiful flowers and/or exotic and lush tropical foliage. Also plant with care a variety of ornamental groundcovers, shrubs, trees and vines. Continue planting these after the New Moon and onward for the remainder of the month plus add hardy and leafy vegetables that produce their crops above the ground. In sheltered and warm gardens (only!) begin to plant out warm season vegetables with protection from potentially chilling night temperatures.

The Moon ascends in Southern Hemisphere skies all week so its gravitational power begins to increase. This often pushes ahead of it a flush of humid and warm Spring air. But be guarded against the possibility of a cool change, especially in exposed colder climates that is even more likely later next week. As the power of this Moon increases, the chance of changeable and possibly extreme weather events also increases.

Each day this week the Moon rises before the Sun and the two celestial bodies draw closer together until they rise in unison 20 October with the New Moon 8AM NZDST. Most successful liquid feeding and watering occurs when it is applied as the Moon and Sun’s gravitation pull increases as they rise and then arc overhead i.e. early morning through mid afternoon. After that most liquid food and water gets pulled into the roots and soil where it will help refresh a dry garden by the next morning. These gravitational forces reach their peak with the New Moon resulting in high tidal forces in all of Nature.

A Time for a Variety of General Gardening Activities:
Due to the increasing gravitational extremes rising during the Last Quarter Moon Cycle and especially the ‘Dark of the Moon’ this can sometimes prove a challenging time for planting, especially anything tender. If in doubt, wait to plant anything flimsy and tender until next week once conditions improve and moderate.

But this is an ideal time for many general gardening activities: composting (making and spreading); cultivating and weeding; feeding and spraying; mowing (too keep grass shorter for longer); light pruning, dead-heading and tidying plus watering. Now is an ideal time to build foundations; lay paving, spread gravel and soil or set fence posts as gravitational forces are strong and will tend to ‘anchor’ things into the ground. Use this time to repair equipment and sharpen tools and buy new equipment and tools. It is also an excellent time to plan and research; order or purchase plants, seeds and necessary supplies plus visit other gardens and get new ideas for your future gardens.

The lowered water retention in the days surrounding the New Moon makes an ideal time to collect and save seed. It is also the best time to gather and pick herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables for drying and long-term storage.

Eliminating Noxious Vegetation and Stubborn Weeds:
The ‘Dark of the Moon’ (17-19 October) is the best time this month to attempt to eliminate hardy noxious weeds, rampant scrub, stubborn vegetation or weed trees. This isn’t always easy because Spring sap is rising, it is more difficult to eliminate noxious vegetation than it is in the Autumn when sap is retreating into the roots. Smaller weeds in active growth are easily eliminated with contact or hormone sprays. It is the larger scrub, trees and vines that make take more effort.

But the gravitational extremes created during the ‘Dark of the Moon’ phase will favour sap bleeding. When the Moon is beneath the horizon (from before dusk to nearly dawn) its gravitational field will combine with that of the Earth. This creates a strong downward pull in plants that favours root development and can also pull herbicides into freshly made cuts stumps in noxious vegetation. This can be used most effectively to help eliminate deeply rooted plants like Convolvulus, Gorse and Tobacco weed and a variety of unwanted brush and scrub.

To make this work most effectively, cut back top growth on woody noxious plants later in the day and apply a suitable herbicide liberally over the freshly cut stump(s) before nightfall. For herbaceous weeds (Chickweed, Dandelion, Dock, etc.) apply contact herbicides during dry, sunny and warm days. If a systematic herbicide like a Glyphosate is to be used, apply this over active growth almost any time this week. Organic Gardeners can substitute a mixture of kerosene and salt applied over the open cut or stump.

A common ‘mistake’ is to attempt to spray herbicide over the entire plant. Then once it is dead eliminate it. There is nothing technically wrong with this. But it means a lot more chemical spray must be used that will pollute a much bigger area. It also means that someone has got to get in there and remove great piles of dead and often dusty vegetation that is now covered in toxic herbicide reside. In no way is this good for the environmental or one’s health.

A better approach would be to cut down and remove all the vegetation first. Then allow a few weeks for growth to regenerate from the cut stumps. Spray this tender young vegetation. Herbicides are much more effective on this type of growth. Less chemical spray will be used in a more concentrated area plus there is less possibility of becoming covered in toxic chemical residue. A few weeks later go back and respray any regrowth. That should eliminate the problem.
 

• Remember that applying anything poisonous that will kill a plant will also potentially do the same thing to you.
• Avoid any physical contact with the poison through breathing or allowing it to touch your skin!
• Dress appropriately as if you were heading to Mars.
• Then afterward head immediately into the shower with a generous application of double soap. No drinking, eating or smoking in between.
• All your contaminated clothing goes into the laundry with double soap and are washed separately to anything else.
• Then wash out the machine afterwards to insure no residual poison remains in the machine to contaminate other clothing.
• Boots, gloves, mask and sprayer are thoroughly washed.
• No matter how “safe” any herbicidal or insecticidal product may be advertised, if it has a warning label, it isn’t safe! Most likely if you don’t follow this advice nothing much at all will happen to you now.
• But in years to come will it matter that you killed a few insects or noxious plants if the consequence is that you lose precious years off your life? Please be sensible and prosper.

Plan and Prepare Now!
To take full advantage of the Ideal gardening conditions ahead, plan and prepare now! Gardeners could start planting with renewed confidence right after the New Moon (20 October). So now is the time to plan and gather all materials, plants and seeds needed for what will begin next week.

Next week it will be possible to plant and sow a wide range of things for the Late Spring, Summer and Autumn garden. Seedlings and advanced container plants often suit the busy City Gardener. Planting from seed takes more patience and time but rewards with a vast range of interesting species and a far greater number of plants for far less cost. For those with the space and time who want abundant flowers and large harvests, seeding is the answer and now is the time to start!

Plan and prepare for the planting of hardy and tender Early Summer-flowering Annuals, Perennials; ornamental shrubs, trees and vines before weather becomes too dry and hot. There may be a few opportunities for planting this week. But after the New Moon conditions will improve through the end of the month and throughout much of November.

Best planting days are often cloudy and damp without much wind that could dry them out. Make sure to water generously at planting time. Also provide mulch around all these fresh new plantings to protect them against dry, windy weather ahead. Watch all new plantings on a regular basis for signs of stress or wilting. Water and liquid feed regularly to maintain healthy and strong growth.

What to Plant and Sow:
While planting anything soft and tender like young seedlings could be challenging, this is still an acceptable time to plant anything dormant and/or hardy. This would include most Summer bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers; many hardy native shrubs transplanted from containers; Cacti and most succulent plants; hardy subtropical Bromeliads; many hardy plants carefully shifted from established containers; also seeds with hard coatings that are sometimes difficult to germinate.

The important point here is to ensure that there is no major root damage or disturbance when transplanting. Make sure that everything is well watered-in immediately and daily thereafter until it becomes obviously established in its new position. Watch everything carefully for signs of predation from disease and pests or environmental stress. Because this is Mid Spring, most plants will be “forgiving” even if planted or sown at the “wrong” time. But because this is the time of building lunar extremes, be forever careful and watchful when handling anything delicate.

Time to Sow:
Weather permitting; this is a superb time to sow seed. Provided that conditions remain bright, mild and moist, germination will probably be rapid and successful. The secret with seed is maintaining warm soil. Heating cables and/or a heated glasshouse or a warm and sunny windowsill help immensely when sowing ‘tender’ seed. Hardy outdoor seedlings and their seed can be started with less difficulty. But let the return of sunny, warm days dictate what gets planted.

Before starting, remember that best results come when there is a plan in mind. Make sure all beds, planter boxes and seed containers are prepared. Make sure the site has been baited in advance to eliminate Slugs and Snails. Insure an adequate water supply and plenty of liquid fertilizer to help establish germination and new growth.

If in doubt, prepare this week and plant and/or sow next week when the Early Waxing Moon Cycle of Late Spring favours the planting of leafy vegetables, ornamental foliage plants of all sorts, general above-ground and leafy development, plus anything that flowers and/or produces its crops above the ground.

These conditions often make transplanting easy and successful. This is also an excellent time to pinch back established seedlings and young growth to induce better branching and flowering. Pruning now will encourage improved new root development and later bushier top growth for better and more prolific cropping and flowering.

Vegetables:
This is still a good time to sow hardy vegetable seed of root crops. Also sow for vegetables that produce their crops above the ground, especially leafy vegetables.

Vegetables to Plant With Care or Sow:
Artichoke, Asparagus seed, Beans*,Beets, Cabbages, Cape Gooseberry, Capsicum*, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Chinese Cabbage and most Asian leafy greens, Choko*, Cress, Cucumber*, Eggplant*, Endive, Kohlrabi, Kumara*, Leeks, Lettuce, Luffa*, Marrow*, Melons*, Mustard, Okra*,Spring Onions, Parsley and Herbs, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Pumpkins*,Radish, Rhubarb, Salsify, Silverbeet, Spinach, Squash*,Sweet Corn*, Sweet Potato*, Tamarillo*, Taro*, Tobacco*, Tomato*, Turnip, Yam, Zucchini* and much more locally.

Anything marked (*) is a ‘tender’ Summer Vegetable i.e. varieties native to subtropical and tropical zones that demand warm condition. In most climates these are best started from seed or seedlings transplanted into pots or punnets sheltered in a very sunny and warm spot outdoors (preferably underneath a cloche) or in the glasshouse or nursery. Grow them on there with the plan to plant them out later once weather fully warms. Alternatively try planting or sowing seed under frost cloth.

Summer ‘Tender’ Vegetables include:
Artichoke, Beans, Capsicum, Choko, Cucumber, Eggplant, Kumara and Sweet Potato, Luffa, Marrow, Melon, Okra, Pumpkins, Squash, Sweet Corn (best sown direct from seed where they are meant to grow), Tamarillo, Taro, Tobacco, Tomato, Zucchini and more locally.

There is no advantage attempting to sow or transplant any of these tender Summer vegetables outdoors into cold, damp ground or anywhere where they might experience even the least chilling winds. It is a common mistake of the Novice Gardener thinking that getting an “early start” will guarantee quicker harvests. It doesn’t usually work that way. A single cold night is all it takes to chill these plants and these often never fully recover or outright die. Those seedlings planted just a few weeks later, once air and soil temperatures are much higher, almost always catch up and surpass those sacrificial seedlings planted too early. It can be done, but this will require cloches, frost cloth or some other form of protection against the odd cold day and evening.

Most of these tender crops also resent root disturbance and may fail or stunt when roots are damaged, especially when transplanting. Thus it is best to start them in individual containers, pots or punnets with only one or just a few seedlings grown in each. Once roots begin to show through the bottom drainage holes and the weather is consistently mild, they can be carefully slipped out of their container with as little root disturbance and loss of dirt as possible and planted into their final growing position.

Kumara & Sweet Potato Sprouts and Yams:
These important root crop vegetables can be planted now in the open ground wherever ground temperatures have thoroughly warmed. Kumara and Sweet Potatoes appear quite different from Yam tubers (a South American, Andes member of the Oxalis Family), but their culture is very similar and much like that of Potato. Place on mounds or raised rows of enriched, well-drained earth with plenty of space between plants. Their planting site should be airy and open; constantly sunny and warm. Kumaras are often planted over boards or sheets of black plastic, submerged in the soil. This forces their edible tuberous roots to grow horizontally just below the surface, rather than penetrating deeply into the soil where they can be difficult to harvest. Wherever Summer weather could become very dry and hot, apply a light fluffy mulch around the leafy foliage to keep the tubers from baking or scorching. Water deeply whenever conditions become dry, then let soil dry out before watering again. Yams will perform fairly well even in rather poorer soils and at lower temperatures. They also need a very long growing season. Their tubers begin forming once day length becomes shorter than nights (after the Autumnal Equinox).

Flower Gardens:
With care, plant a wide range of hardy seedlings and sow seed for the flower garden. This includes many annuals, biennials, bulbs and perennials that also start easily now from seed. All of these can be planted or sown throughout most of the remainder of this month. Protect tender species from late cold conditions with cloches or frost cloth. If in doubt start everything with bottom heat or in a very sheltered, sunny and warm position; especially protected from evening cold. Just a few cold nights can chill and ruin a tender young flower crop so treat them like the tender babies they are!

Flowers to Sow or Carefully Transplant as Seedlings:
Ageratum, Alyssum, Amaranthus, Arctotis, Aster (excellent time to sow), Balsam, Basil, Begonias, Bells of Ireland, Boronia, California Poppy, Calendula, Calliopsis, Canterbury Bells, Carnation, Celosia, Clarkia, Cleome, Chrysanthemum, Coleus, Coneflower, Cornflower, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Cyclamen, Dahlia, Delphinium, Dianthus, Blue Lace Flower, all everlasting flowers, Feverfew, Forget-Me-Not, Freesia, Gaillardia, Gazania, Geranium (Pelargoniums) plus true Geraniums, Gerbera, Geum, Globe Amaranthus, Gloxinia, Godetia, Gypsophila, Honesty (Lunaria),Impatiens, Kochia, Larkspur, Linum, Linaria, Marigold, Nasturtium, Ornamental Peppers, Petunia, Phlox, Portulaca, Rudbeckia, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Schizanthus, Snapdragon, Statice, Strawflower, Sturts Desert Pea, Sunflower, Swan River Daisy, Sweet William, Tithonia, Thunbergia, Verbena, Viscaria, Zinnia and much more locally.

Perennials:
Perennials can be sown from seed. Most of these will flower next year and thereafter. Alternatively, plant advanced container-grown perennials that will probably flower this growing season and then multiply into larger clumps in years-to-come.

Perennials to Carefully Plant and Sow Now:
Achillea, Agapanthus, Anemone (Coronaria, Japanese and species), Aster, Canna, Carnation, Centaurea, Clematis, Coreopsis, Dianthus, Digitalis (Foxglove), Gaillardia, Gaura, Gazania, Gerbera, Geum, Gypsophila, Helleborus (Winter Rose), Heuchera (Coral Bells), Lupin, Lychnis, Maclaeya (Plum Poppy), Meconopsis (Tibetan Blue Poppy), Myosotium (Chatham Island Forget-Me-Not), Nymphaea (Water Lily), Nierembergia, Omphalodes, Oenothera (Evening Primrose), Penstemon, Physostegia (Obedient Plant), Platycodon (Balloon Flower), Pyrethrum (Painted Daisy), Romneya (Tree Poppy), Rudbeckia (Brown Eyed Susan), Salvias, Scabiosa (Pin Cushion Flowers), Sedums, Solidago (Goldenrod), Stokesia, Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise), Streptocarpus (Cape Primrose), Thyme, Venidium, Violets, Zantedeschia and much more locally.

Polyanthus, Primulas and Violet species can be lifted, divided and replanted once their flowering finishes. While all these enjoy sunny and warm Winter positions, they often collapse if left in the same sunny spot through hot Summer climates. In such climates, plants are often moved into seedling flats or pots placed in a cool, moist, partly shady spot to grow on over the Summer. Then they are replanted into their flowering positions once weather cools in Autumn. In cooler climates simply divide, replant, feed and water-on for Summer growth. All these species are ideally suited to deciduous woodland positions that provide them Winter and early Spring sunshine and cool, dappled shade through the Summer.

Bulbs, Corms, Rhizomes, Roots, and Tubers:
These Summer flowering ‘bulbs’ can be easily planted all month: Achimenes, Acidanthera, Agapanthus, Amaryllis, Arum, Caladium, Calla, Canna, Crinum, Dahlia, Eucomis (Pineapple Lily), Galtonia (Cape Hyacinth), Gladioli, Gloriosa Lily, Gloxinia, Hedychium (Edible and Ornamental Gingers), Hemerocallis, Hippeastrum (Amaryllis), Hymenocallis (Ismene), Ranunculus (cold climates), Tigridia (Shell Flower), Tuberose, Tuberous Begonias, Zantedeschia (Arum/Calla) and more.

When planted now during the Full Waning Moon Cycle this week, they often take root quickly. Then next week as the Waxing Moon Cycle develops, these often make quick top growth and later produce excellent flowering. With adequate feeding and light watering brilliant results can come from planting now and throughout the remainder of the month.

For Northern Hemisphere Gardeners this is an excellent time to start planting Spring-flowering bulbs: all the classics like: Crocus, Daffodil (Narcissus varieties), Hyacinth, Tulips and many more. Pop some into refrigeration to force early blooms that will be treasured during cold and dreary winter days. In the Northern Hemisphere’s cooler temperate zones this is when tender Summer-flowering ‘bulbs’ (Caladium, Canna, Dahlia, Gladioli, Hippeastrum, Tuberous Begonia and the remainder listed above) are dug up for protective Winter storage. In mild Southern gardens, these bulbs may be left in the ground, provided their surrounding soil is well drained, but should be mulched against possible wintry freezes.

Back in the Southern Hemisphere gardens:
Gladioli are excellent when planted now in most areas, especially cooler and temperate zone climates. They take between 90-110 days from planting until flowering. When Gladioli are planted now, they will flower in Mid Summer when conditions are ideal for their culture. Dig soil deeply. Add to the soil mature compost and/or good quality Bulb Food or General Plant Fertilizer. Plant corms 4-6inches/10-15cm deep and be prepared to stake against winds as blooms will be top-heavy. Water deeply after planting and keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy.

In humid subtropical locations, Gladioli are often plagued with rust disease. For this reason corms are early planted (late August-September) which often avoids rust. When planted now the corms can be shucked of their outer papery skin and then soaked in a suitable systemic fungicide just prior to planting. This greatly helps reduce rust entering the flesh of the corm. Then start spraying regularly (every 10-14 days) from at least the third leaf stage to help control this problem. Choose a very airy and open site in full sunshine. Soil should be well enriched; freely draining with lime added to help prevent rust infections.

Gloxinias:
Gloxinias are closely related to African Violets and require similar care. They are sometimes difficult to find because just like African Violets they can be somewhat difficult to grow. But once you discover their rather simple growing requirements, they are so worth the effort involved. These are truly exotic treasures of the natural world.

Gloxinias are wonderful house and conservatory plants doing well in containers and especially baskets. Their ancestry originated as tropical rainforest understory groundcover type plants. Thus they require sustained humid and warm (never hot) conditions that are sometimes found in better quality home environments. Bright light is essential to keep the plants compact. They do exceptionally well when grown beneath artificial Grow Lights. Morning ‘soft’ direct sunshine is good for them but avoid any glaring or hot sunshine or leaves will scorch.

They can be planted in succession to extend the flowering period from now onward for Summer & Autumn flowers. Place the corm-like tuber just below the surface in a pot of basket. Gloxinias perform best when planted into an enriched but very porous potting mix suitable for African Violets. Water once lightly at planting and only again if the soil becomes dry. Once growth commences continue to water only sparingly as overwatering encourages rotting. All they need is to be kept just lightly moist. Water at room temperate is best and should be chlorine-free. This is easy enough to accomplish by letting the water stand in a container overnight. Rainwater is ideal.

Place in a very bright (never hotly sunny) warm position with good air circulation. Soon small velvety leaves will appear. Once they do start into active growth provide light and regular feeding with African Violet liquid food or a pinch of Tomato Fertiliser every few weeks. Place this at the inside end of the pot.

Of special importance:
Avoid any water or liquid fertilizer remaining on the foliage or flowers. Always water between the leaves or a much safer method is to water the plant from beneath into a saucer, which works the best, then drain off excess water. When water falls on the foliage, immediately blow or gently shake it off, especially out of the central crown to avoid rot or leaf spotting.

Gloxinia flowers are divinely exotic and their velvety pad foliage is equally as beautiful. This is a show pony plant worthy of its own decorative container.

Once flowering finishes, continue feeding lightly and allow its foliage to mature. It then will slowly wither and the remnants can be carefully cut away and removed. Sometimes one or more new sprouts will take their place. If not, simply set the pot aside in a moderately cool and dry place for at least 6 weeks. Then repot and start the cycle again. Gloxinia tubers can last for many years and grow in size and beauty with proper care.

Tuberous Begonias:
Tuberous Begonias are beautiful and bold aristocrats of the Summer garden. Their somewhat succulent and almost waxy blossoms often resemble Camellia blooms on dwarf, stock plants with fleshy stems and handsome ‘Angel-wing leaves. Tuberous Begonias usually thrive when started now.

Start them under similar mild, sheltered and very bright or sunny conditions as Gloxinia. Their ancestors came from Brazilian rainforest and tropical conditions. So they require consistent moderate to warm conditions and dislike chilling or cold drafts. They require a similar soil that is freely draining and peaty.

The cup-shaped and somewhat furry tubers can be first started on a mildly sunny and warm windowsill without soil. Alternatively, they are often started in smaller pots intended for later transplanting. Plant with the cup facing upwards and just barely cover over the top with fine soil. At planting either don’t water at all or just the smallest amount to avoid rotting the tubers. Emerging shoots are usually a pretty shade of pink or light green. These are quite tender and easily damaged or broken off if accidently knocked. Tuberous Begonias are much hardier once they become established. Snails and Slugs like them too! Once growth attains 1-2inches/2.5-5cm in height, start watering a little more often and liquid feeding at half strength.

Transplant the tubers once shoots are 2-6inches/5-15cm tall. For exhibition blooms the sprouted Tuberous Begonias are later transplanted into larger pots or tubs. Once weather settles, they can be planted outdoors into well-worked and enriched beds. They need a sheltered garden with bright morning sunshine; dappled sunshine through a slightly shaded canopy of shrubs or trees or when grown in very bright indirect light. They tolerate full sunshine in cooler Summer climates where they make stunning bedding plants. But if ever they become dry and hot in fully sunny locations Tuberous Begonias tend to stunt and leaves may burn, scorch or yellow. Tuberous Begonias are often at their finest in a controlled conservatory or glasshouse environment, or sheltered deck or patio outdoors.

Cyclamen:
Cyclamen are a cool season classic that often takes 6-8 months to reach maturity. Sow Cyclamen seed now for next years’ flowers in light, gravely or sandy potting mix. Deeply soak both seed & mix at planting then maintain just lightly moist in a bright or partly shaded warm spot or glasshouse. Seed often germinates best when not exposed to direct sunlight. They are often successfully started in pots placed within a plastic bag loosely closed over the top that creates a mini terrarium environment. Germination is erratic. Let the seedlings grow on until they develop several mature leaves. Then prick out the Cyclamen seedlings into individual pots and continue growing on throughout the warmer months in airy, cool, partly shaded conditions with light but regular feeding. Avoid overwatering to avoid damp-off fungus or rotting.

Mature Cyclamen that blooms over the Winter and Early Spring probably have finished blooming now, or usually will as soon as weather becomes consistently warmer. Leaves begin to yellow and wither. Reduce watering and stop feeding so that the plants can enter dormancy. If they are in pots, move these to someplace where they can stay relatively dry and at least partially shaded. Alternatively, move them to beneath the bench in a glasshouse. Their corms will usually remain dormant throughout the warm months. Once they spring back into life in Late Summer or Autumn they can be repotted, fed and lightly watered to start their growing cycle again.

Cuttings:
As soon as weather begins to warm, start cuttings from a variety of (sub) tropical and house plants. Also many perennials like Chrysanthemum, Dahlia, Lavender and hundreds of other herbaceous plants and shrubs can be started from cuttings now. Smaller to medium length cuttings 5-8inches/12.5-20cm usually work best. Take these from the top or sunny side of the plant; alternatively from a layered side shoot.

Pinch out the tender growing tip and remove lower leaves, leaving only a couple of leaves at the top. It is often helpful to place the cut end of the cutting in hormone gel or powder and let it soak in this for a minute or two.

Then fill a 6-10inch pot15-25 cm pot with clean sand; sand/peat or pumice mix. Thoroughly wet the mixture. Using a stick or something the size of a pencil, make dibble holes in the propagating sand and gently drop (don’t push) the cutting into the hole. This way the hormone is not pushed off the base of each cutting. Then fill in with more sand and firm down against each cutting so there is thorough contact with the soil. It is permissible to lightly mist or carefully lightly water over the cuttings.

Cuttings usually strike quickly if kept bright, humid and warm. A warm glasshouse or sheltered cold frame makes the best environment. But a simple terrarium can be made by placing the pot of cuttings inside a clear plastic bag. Draw up the sides around and over the pot and loosely tie over the top. Place in a very bright, but not hot and sunny spot and maintain constant warm temperatures out of chilling drafts and maintain even soil moisture. With any luck cuttings will strike in a few weeks.

Ornamental Shrubs, Trees & Vines:
This is a good to time plant a wide variety of ornamental groundcovers, shrubs, trees and vines that are to be transplanted from established containers. Many can be shifted and transplanted now provided they can be regularly cared for and watered until they become established. Better planting conditions will continue through the remainder of the month into next month. But the critical factor here is not so much getting them planted now as insuring that they remain well cared for and watered in the drier months that follow. This requires a bit more of a commitment than the same plants established from Autumn and Winter plantings when rainfall was guaranteed.

Feed ornamental shrubs, trees, and vines to encourage new growth. Also include all brambles and cane fruit, fruiting shrubs, trees and vines. A general feeding mix would include a balanced General Garden fertiliser or Slow Release Plant Food plus blood and bone, mixed with well-aged manure or mature compost spread as a mulch around the plant to its drip-line. Mix one cup of the chemical fertiliser into one bucket of compost/manure.

Organic Gardeners can substitute a mix of equal parts: blood and bone; rock phosphate; and green stone or well-aged wood ashes.

Most fruiting and ornamental species also benefit from a dusting of Dolomite Lime. Avoid Garden Lime (with a much higher pH) on all acid-loving species which includes most Bramble and Cane Fruits, Blueberries; Azalea, Camellias, Daphne, Gardenia, Holly, Pieris and Rhododendron species.

Continue mulching everything in preparation for the dry and hot weather ahead. When artificial watering is necessary, make this deep and long but less frequent, perhaps just once a week, so as to encourage deeper rooting. Frequent shallow watering will encourage surface rooting which will make the plants increasingly more dependent on extra artificial watering as the season becomes progressively drier.

Citrus:
Continue to feed Citrus lightly and evenly from near the trunk outward to the drip line. Little and often suits them best. This is also an excellent time to plant Citrus. They can also be pruned now to eliminate diseased and weak or non-flowering growth. But heavy pruning will eliminate flowering and fruiting this season. However, if the pruning is intended to stimulate healthy new growth now is the right time.

Spray all Citrus now. Many problems with disease, fungus and pests start as the weather becomes more humid and warm. New emerging fruits and foliage are quite tender and vulnerable so are easily attacked. This can happen quite quickly and nearly invisibly. Such damage can disfigure and/or stunt future development of fruit as well as ruin new growth. A comprehensive spraying of the trees now can often prevent this unfortunate consequence. Special Citrus sprays are easily purchased. Organic Gardeners often prefer a simple spraying oil or even liquid soap mixed with Champion (liquid) or powdered Copper, while some choose Neem Oil. Possums can be stopped by spraying over thoroughly wet foliage with fish emulsion.

If the trees are bearing edible fruit that is nearing maturity, use an ‘organic’ contact spray to eliminate fungus and insect pests. If the trees are free from edible fruit but new flowers and young fruits are emerging, this can be one of the best times for a comprehensive systemic spray to protect the trees from damage in the coming months.

Make sure Citrus remain well watered so that fruit and new growth expand properly as they should. If new fruits are damaged or become stunted from disease or drought at this early stage of development, they often soon drop off and the crop is lost.

Holiday Gardens:
Think about holiday displays now! This a great time to start planning and planting displays for the Christmas holidays.

Southern Hemisphere Gardeners:
Sow and plant a huge range of annuals and perennials. Advanced annual seedlings planted in the weeks ahead will be in full bloom for the Christmas holiday season if started now. Often container-planted perennials will be flowering then, too. While seed sown now will either be in full growth or just producing their early blooms. For the very best effect, plant your holiday garden advanced seedlings now and sow seed of a similar or contrasting variety around them. This way there will be flowers popping up quite soon and emerging seedlings that will overtake them to continue the show well into the New Year, often until frost.

Northern Hemisphere Gardeners heading into Mid Autumn should continue to pot Spring Flowering Bulbs for Winter forcing. Also pot on Gloxinia and place these along with African Violets under agricultural lights or in strong morning or a full southern sunshine in a constantly warm position indoors, in the conservatory or glasshouse. Pot up Hippeastrum (Amaryllis), Lilium longiflorum and Asiatic Lily bulbs and grow these in the brightest positions possible. Keep them moderately warm; out of chilling drafts and avoid overwatering, especially during cloudy and colder weather.

Repot Cyclamen, Kalanchoe and Primulas, especially Primula obconica if you would like to grow them on for another season of flowering. Use an enriched but freely draining house plant or general potting mix. Keep these in a bright position, either in the cool glasshouse or indoors in at least morning sunshine or stronger light. These plants all necessitate cooler temperatures, especially during the evening hours. So place them in an unheated (but never freezing) room. Alternatively, grow them on a windowsill and close curtains over them in the evening to keep them from rotting or withering in heated rooms.

Keep Poinsettias lightly and regularly fed and watered in a very bright or sunny environment. For all but the warmest regions, they are grown indoors or in a heated glasshouse. In Southern Hemisphere blooms are finished and bracts are fading. Now is the time to trim them back. Take cuttings for new plants now and onward for the next several months. Lay the cuttings on their side out of direct sun for at least a few hours until they stop bleeding. Then start them in pumice in a bright and warm position.

Poinsettias are short-day-length plants. That means that they naturally set blooming buds and produce bright bract leaves after the Autumnal Equinox when day length becomes less than 12 hours each day. So if the plants are grown where there is artificial lighting nearby they need complete shading from all light sources each evening for at least 12 to 14 hours. Poinsettia plants intended for Christmas display need to be placed in a growing environment that meets their special lighting requirements starting now. The first bract leaves and tiny flower buds may begin to emerge from the growing tips any time from later this month or next.